Wednesday, April 29, 2015

Italy 2015 - Venezia

Gondola ride with Phil

This is post number two about our Italian trip. The previous post is:

  1. Milano

A day after landing in Milan we took a two-hour train ride to Venice. Venice was the city both girls most wanted to visit and they loved emerging from the train station next to the Grand Canal.

We walked 20 minutes to our hotel where we checked into a lovely room. It was conveniently located about 10 minutes from the Rialto Bridge and 15 minutes from Piazza San Marco. It was also relatively close to the vaporetto (boat "bus") stop from which we would go to the other islands.

While exploring the neighborhood we found ourselves at a bar near that dock and we sat down for a snack of pizza and drinks. The pizza was fantastic. Perfect crust and sauce. I told the girls we'd be enjoying food that good for our entire trip. I was wrong, though. We certainly ate plenty of good food, but that was the best pizza we were to find anywhere.

From 1983-1986 my boss in my first professional job was Phil K. Even though I was a very immature and in some ways terrible employee, Phil and I somehow became friends anyway. We had many outdoor adventures together.

Phil is Swiss, and in the 90's he moved home. I saw him a couple of times in Switzerland back in the days when I travelled to Europe regularly for business. The last time we had seen each other was in 2006 while Phil was in Seattle. I always fantasize about visiting Phil again in Switzerland but of course with a family that is difficult.

When we made the plan to visit Italy I let Phil know our itinerary and invited him to join us for part of our trip. He decided to join us in Venice. He arrived two hours after us and we met near the hotel.

Once Phil was checked in we all went wandering. We ended up in Piazza San Marco (of course) and at the Bridge of Sighs. Then we wandered back toward our hotel but we weren't trying to get there too directly. Carol and my favorite thing to do in Venice is just get lost. There are interesting scenes around every corner: hidden small piazzas; churches; small canals and fascinating buildings.

Along the way we passed a restaurant that caught our eye. Later, when it was dinner time, we returned there and had a lovely dinner in a great atmosphere.

The next day after breakfast at the hotel we set out for the vaporetto stop. We took the boat to Burano, and outlying island known for lace and brightly painted houses. It's a beautiful place. it also has a church bell tower that is tilted by 5 degrees. We visited a lace shop and bought some souvenirs (bookmarks and handkerchiefs). We wandered around the less-travelled parts of the island and found a big lawn to relax on (in the main part of Venice there is absolutely no "green" ground).

Next we took the vaporetto to Murano, the island that is famous for glass blowing. We visited a few glass shops and then found a casual restaurant for lunch.

The vaporetto from Murano back to Venice stops at the cemetery island. Hardly anyone gets on or off there, but it's another favorite aspect of Venice for us. It's fascinating because in Venice people obviously can't be buried underground so Venice's dead are all interred in above-ground mausoleums. The cemetery island contains acres and acres of mausoleums. It's interesting to read the names and dates and look at the decorations (and fake flowers).

Of course, while in Venice one must go for a ride in a gondola. It's somewhat expensive but still obligatory. We discovered that the price goes up at 7:00pm so we went in search of a gondola at 6:30. We found one pretty quickly. He turned out to be very informative, and the timing was perfect: our half hour ride was just before sunset - during what the photographers call "the golden hour". It was beautiful, and it was even longer than usual since we were our gondolier's last customers of the day.

On Tuesday afternoon Phil would head back to Geneva and we would depart for Florence. But in the morning we returned to Piazza San Marco to see the church and go up in the camponile. I had forgotten just how beautiful the church interior is - it is covered with mosaics, many of which are made with gold leaf. The view from the camponile was cool. It's interesting to look down on the random jumble of buildings that make up the city.

One thing I learned that is obvious once you hear it: Venice is made up of something like 140 islands. Initially people used them as a way to escape from raiders on the mainland. They eventually built bulkheads at the edges of the islands. The waterways between the islands eventually became completely walled in and became today's canals. When wandering around Venice and crossing all those small canals it had never occurred to me that I was traversing a bunch of separate islands.

Phil walked us to the train station in the early afternoon and we said our goodbyes. I was so glad that we were able to meet again. It was great to see Phil and great to share Venice with him. He and the girls enjoyed each other's company, too.

Next: off to Florence.

Italy 2015 - Milano

Duomo di Milano

We just returned from a fantastic two week trip to Italy. I'll be posting the photos one city at a time beginning with Milan.

We've been planning and saving for this trip for four years. It got interrupted by cancer in 2013, although Carol wasn't quite ready to go that year anyway. But once cancer was in the rear view mirror we started planning in earnest for a 2015 trip.

We gave the girls the choice of where they'd like to go. They chose Italy. Charlotte wanted to see Pompeii, Audrey wanted to see Rome and both girls wanted to see Venice.

Carol and I went to Italy for our honeymoon a month before our wedding in 2001. We got married in June, but we decided to go to Italy in late April/early May because we wanted cooler weather and smaller crowds. We chose the same time period this time. We combined the girls' spring break with another week of missed school. We figured they were going to get plenty of education that week.

We found surprisingly inexpensive airfare for non-stop flights between JFK and Milan. We drove to New York to catch our flight on Friday afternoon after school. We departed JFK at 10pm and arrived in Milan just after noon on Saturday Milan time.

Carol and I had warned the girls that we wouldn't feel very energetic when we arrived, and that we would strive to stay awake until a normal bedtime local time. However, we all felt pretty good upon arrival even though Audrey and Carol didn't sleep at all on the plane, I slept maybe two hours and Charlotte slept about three. We took the train into the city and found our way to our Airbnb apartment a few blocks from the train station.

The apartment was lovely. Our hosts Arianna and her husband had constructed a completely separate studio apartment from a portion of their large apartment and they rent it out regularly. It was quite comfortable and had a kitchen and four beds. The building had a charming post-war elevator that could barely accommodate the four of us if we squeezed.

We rested for a brief period and then we set out to see a little of Milan. We navigated to a tram stop and took the vintage tram to the Duomo. After visiting the church we walked around a bit looking for a reasonably-priced restaurant. We didn't find one and the girls were fading a bit, so we took the subway back to our apartment. We had seen a couple of promising restaurants on our block.

The restaurant door was unlocked but no one was around. We had to call out and eventually the owners came out of the back. We were pretty early for dinner by Italian standards (I think it was 7pm) but they were willing to serve us. They didn't speak much English, but I took the owner/waiter outside and pointed at the fixed price menu that looked good to us. It was easy to ask for ravioli for Audrey and spaghetti for Charlotte.

The fixed price menu for two people turned out to be way too much food for Carol and me. It started with antipasti from a buffet that the owner chose for us. He brought a large plate of cured meats and grilled marinated vegetables. After that he brought us each a very large serving of pasta. Just the pasta would have been more than I could eat. I didn't finish it. Then he brought us the secondi course - a large steak for me and something similar to chicken marsala for Carol. I barely touched my steak I was so full. We took leftovers back to the apartment refrigerator. We ended with a single tiramisu, split four ways, that was pudding-like and delicious.

Carol and the girls slept well. I woke up at 4:30 and was awake for hours. I think I fell asleep again around 7 and next thing I knew Carol was shaking me awake at 10:30. We had a noon train to Venice to catch, so we had to scramble a bit to eat some breakfast, pack and make our way back to the train station.

We deliberately didn't spend much time in Milan because other cities were a higher priority for us. Someday perhaps we'll spend more time there. It seems like the city has a lot to offer. If we had planned ahead, we might have been able to see The Last Supper.


You'll notice that I'm using a new photo hosting site: Smugmug. I've used Picasa Web Albums (A Google product) for many years but it is no longer maintained and looks pretty dated these days. Smugmug has a much more modern design and also works much better on phones. Click on the image above to go to the Milan photo gallery. On the upper right of that page you'll see a "Slideshow" button if you prefer to look at photos that way.

Monday, April 27, 2015

Squishy Circuits at Melrose STEM Night

On April 9th the Melrose Education Foundation sponsored a STEM night for elementary students. I volunteered to present Squshy Circuits, the activity we present as a family at science-related events.

Charlotte and Audrey helped out and it was a big hit. We even made it into the local paper!

Sunday, April 5, 2015

Winter Photos

Now that winter has finally broken, it's time to go back and see what it looked like.

Here are 86 photos for your enjoyment.

Saturday, April 4, 2015

Spring!

Finally a little spring weather - and the snow is melting. It was quiet upstairs so I went to investigate and found an open window, then this.

That other route out of the house is gonna be trouble in a few years!

Friday, April 3, 2015

Ice Show 2015

The girls take skating lessons all year round these days, but the "main" season is October-March. And at the end of that season there is an annual ice show produced by the woman who heads the skating school. Each year the girls get new costumes for their routine in the show.

Every girl (there are zero boys in this skating school, at least this year) skates with her class group. And once they advance from the eight Basic levels into the eight Free Skate levels they can also skate in a trio, duo or solo. Charlotte is currently Basic 5. Audrey is Free Skate 3, so in addition to her group routine Audrey also performed a duo this year.

Both girls skated very well.

You can see videos of the performances here: