Saturday, July 18, 2015

Italy 2015 - Pompei and Napoli

Italy 2015 - Pompei and Napoli

This is post number eight about our Italian trip. The previous posts are:

  1. Milano
  2. Venezia
  3. Firenze
  4. Bagnoregio
  5. Assisi
  6. Orvieto
  7. Roma

Pompeii

Wanting to see Pompeii was one of the main reasons the girls chose Italy as the destination for our first international trip. On our third day staying in Rome we took a day trip to Pompeii and Naples.

The Italian train system has three levels of fast train: Frecciabianca ("white", goes 120mph), Frecciaagento ("silver", goes 160mph) and Frecciarossa ("red", goes 180mph). The Rome to Naples route was our first chance to ride a red train and go really fast. Then from Naples one takes a much slower regional or commuter train to Pompeii.

However, it turns out there are two train stations in Pompeii served by different lines. We ended up at the station that serves the modern city of Pompeii and then we walked about a mile to the entrance to the ruins. We turned down a taxi ride but it would have been worth it. Oh well, live and learn. Every foreign trip has to include a death march or two.

The ruins were great. We visited a bakery with grain mills; a city gate; walked along the town walls; visited a merchant's house with very pretty murals; and a huge public bath complex. We finished up with a visit to the two large amphitheaters. The girls were too hot and tired to make it to the largest amphitheater in the far corner of the ruins, but we saw a lot and got a good sense of life in the ancient city.

We enjoyed a snack back at the train station before taking the train back to Naples.

Naples

Naples

Naples has a reputation as a rough city with a particular problem with pickpockets. Carol was nervous but I wasn't too concerned about it. I just move my wallet to my front pocket and keep my hand on it when I'm in a crowded area of high risk.

Naples is famous for pizza. I read online reviews and found a place that sounded promising only a few blocks from the station.

We headed there but arrived about 5:30 and they told us they opened at 6:00. We walked to a nearby square to hang out and people watch until they opened.

But when we returned at 6:00 they told us they didn't open until 6:30.

Stupid tourists wanting dinner at 6:00pm!

I thought the neighborhood was pretty cool. Rick Steeves describes Naples as a "beautiful mess" and that pretty well describes the parts we saw. For one thing, there is laundry hanging everywhere.

I especially liked the street we walked down near the station that was filled with stalls selling all kinds of everyday stuff. We also walked past a couple of auto parts "stores" that were very small spaces crammed with parts from floor to ceiling.

Since we had to bail on our first choice, we ducked into a snack bar that also had Neapolitan pizza. It was really good! That shop was also a bakery that had lots of treats so we stocked up on those for the train trip back to Rome.

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